Turquoise embellishments, cowboy hats and a variety of leather bags filled the Jardin d’Acclimatation in Paris as Louis Vuitton debuted its Men’s Fall-Winter 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week.

This is certainly not former Northwestern student Pharrell William’s first rodeo as Louis Vuitton’s men’s creative director. For his second collection with Louis Vuitton, Williams took the French luxury fashion house out West with him. His collection features an old Western workwear wardrobe that cowboys have been rocking for over a century, with traditional Indigenous-inspired elements.

Williams, Dee Jay Twobears of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe and craftsmen and artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations collaborated on sound, staging and set elements for the show. Together, they worked to elevate Western style into the ever-evolving high fashion brand that is Louis Vuitton.

Malaysian model Ridzman Zidaine opened the show wearing a gray-embroidered fringe white trench coat, a white dress shirt with turquoise buttons, a white and gray ribbon tie, turquoise earrings, blue jeans, studded black belt and black boots accompanied by a Louis Vuitton ‘Speedy’ bag in a turquoise colorway.

In keeping with the Western theme and in collaboration with the tribes, the collection featured copious amounts of turquoise — the stone is often used ceremonially among Indigenous Americans in the Southwest United States and is associated with wisdom.

As models like Anok Yai and Will Lemay walked down the Paris amusement park turned scenic American Great Plains view, the crowd seemed pleasantly surprised to see pearl-and-sequin floral adornments, gold and silver hardware and a diverse set of cowboy boots. 

Pops of color were present throughout the collection, but leather and denim neutrals stole the show. Shades of brown, beige, black and blue took form into suits, saddle-inspired jackets, jeans, ruffled tops, coats and accessories. 

Williams incorporated elements of Western-style such as bolo ties, bandanas and chaps into brand staples like monogrammed bags, accessories and branded clothing to create this rodeo-ready collection. 

Notable debuts from the collection include Timberland x Louis Vuitton boots — in ‘Cowmooflage,’ ‘Buffalo Check’ and ‘Damoflage’ colors — canvas bags and trunks, multiple colors of the brand’s classic ‘Speedy’ bag and handbags embroidered with the Dakota Flower. 

Models strutted down the runway to live performances of “The Spirit of Saturday Night Live” by Native Voices of Resistance and “Good People” by Mumford & Sons. Shortly after, “Shotgun Wedding” by Jelly Roll and “Doctor” by Miley Cyrus played in the background — all notably featured and produced by Williams.

Among the show’s spectators were friends of the designer and the brand, including actor Bradley Cooper, model Karlie Kloss, Reggaeton singer Rauw Alejandro, rappers Quavo, Swae Lee and Playboi Carti.

While some critics might call the collection ‘costumey,’ Williams’ focus was on highlighting the brand’s accessories and bags –– hot commodities among its clientele.

Williams’ second collection for Louis Vuitton highlights a new chapter for the brand and its increased support of Black and Brown concepts. 

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Twitter: @alexbespeakin

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