When Daniel Kelch opened Taco Diablo, LuLu’s, The Blue Horse Tavern and the Five & Dime 33 years ago, fast food chains were not intimidating. Despite familiar favorites like Taco Bell, The Fat Shallot and DosBros Mexican Grill infiltrating the ranks of cozy hole-in-the-wall restaurants following the COVID-19 pandemic, he said they have ceased to cause concern.
“Chains have never, ever done really well here,” Kelch said. “They tend to come, stay a few years, then they’re out. I think that’s because of the community.”
In fact, Kelch said chains seem to come and go, but locally owned restaurants tend to stick around.
He attributes customer loyalty to Evanston’s small-town nature, despite its size as a city of 75,000.
“It seems like everyone knows everyone,” Kelch said. “I think that people in the town really pay attention to what’s happening in town.”
However, the choice for Mexican- or Spanish-inspired cuisine can be a tight race. Those seeking a quesadilla or burrito bowl may find themselves at locally-owned Taco Diablo or Tapas Barcelona, or commercially beloved spots like Chipotle and the recently opened Taco Bell on Sherman Avenue.
Tapas Barcelona general manager Vladimir Huante isn’t worried about competition from chains serving similar cuisine because he said his restaurant is distinct in its sit-down service and atmosphere.
“We have built up good clientele that, you know, they come almost every week,” Huante said. “Some people come every day.”
Huante said Tapas Barcelona has been a staple of Spanish food in Evanston for 30 years, which he said has given the restaurant time to develop a loyal customer base. This was especially evident post-pandemic when the community continued to support the restaurant by ordering food and returned to in-person dining soon after reopening, he said.
“We have very good patrons that come on a regular basis, and they’ve been supporting us for a long time,” Huante said. “COVID hit (and) they were ordering food to go and as soon as we were able to open, they would come to support us.”
Some local food spots have said they are doing better than ever. Berry Pike Cafe manager Adat Ali said they have been increasing their sales over the past two years by maintaining a loyal customer base and increasing their online presence.
“What brings people back is the quality of food and customer service,” Ali said. “Also discounts, but most importantly, social media platforms.”
Kelch said his group of restaurants on Davis Street has improved its sales in the years after the pandemic. He said their effort to appeal to every demographic — from families to college students to the retired community — helps to cushion sales against fast food chains.
Rather, he said the concerns faced by the restaurant have to do with economic inflation.
“One of the hardships right now is inflation is just completely out of control,” Kelch said. “The cost of goods has just doubled in price, so that’s probably one of our biggest challenges.”
Email: claramartinez2028@u.northwestern.edu
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