With its slick interior, Union Pizzeria is bringing business to south Chicago Ave. [Paul Takahashi]——–
If you haven’t ventured south of Davis Street since you got off the El too early freshman year, you may have missed some changes to that part of Chicago Avenue. The neighborhood known mostly for Jewel and Blockbuster now not only has its own Whole Foods (the chain completed its takeover of Wild Oats two weeks ago after a $565 million merger) but is also home to several chic eateries. Union Pizzeria (1245 Chicago Ave.) opened in February, and Blind Faith Café (525 Dempster St.), a hip vegetarian joint, underwent renovations and modified its menu for a March debut.
But be sure to have your American Express ready. These spots cater to a more upscale customer. You won’t find the two-inch thick slab a la Giordano’s at Union Pizzeria, which serves up dishes like veal-pork-ricotta meatballs and calamari with fennel beside a fully stocked bar. The average pizza costs about $12, but it isn’t the main attraction. The space houses the restaurant, a performance area and a musician’s club.
Blind Faith Café has long been a Dempster-area mainstay, serving up internationally influenced, meat-free fare. The remodeling added a café, deli and prepackaged lunch items like Santa Fe Salad and Curried Seitan. “We’ve been around almost 30 years, and every so often you have to reinvent yourself,” says owner David Lipschutz. “Our food has matured, and we wanted the room to reflect that fresh feel.”
The Evanston Chamber of Commerce’s executive director, Jonathan Perman, says Union Pizzeria is a unique venture, but is not indicative of a local development trend. “In general, what’s going on in the area is very positive. The area has very few empty spaces,” he says. “But the real test will be six months from now.”
As always, success will depend on demand. Union’s menu was designed to cater to a wide demographic, says Heather Behm, manager of operations. Even the name was meant to symbolize the meeting of different types of people. “We’ve been thrilled with the turnout,” she says. “We have a really diverse group of the early crowd of people with kids, the 30- to 50-year-old couples, and the later university crowd.”
The new kids on the Dempster block have already affected existing restaurants like Homemade Pizza Company (1301 Chicago Ave.). Manager Mike Doty says the condominium development and Union’s opening have widened his customer base and lured in young customers. “I think Union was badly needed,” he says. “It’s swanky but it’s still relaxing… it’s making a killing here.”
Doty’s pizza doesn’t compete with Union – if anything, his business has been better for it. “The Dempster-Chicago area is a prime spot because there are a lot of new condos going up and the train station is right here,” he says. “We’re getting a younger, yuppie generation starting up families.”
Union has a symbiotic relationship with Homemade Pizza Company and other local businesses, Behm says. When managers were deciding which beers to stock, Behm ordered three pizzas from Homemade Pizza and threw a beer tasting party at her house. She regularly tells customers who ask for takeout, which Union does not offer, to head to Doty’s shop.
There is definitely a market for upscale dining, even on a student budget, based on Union Pizzeria’s success. The swanky hangout doesn’t take reservations, and probably doesn’t need to, says McCormick senior Taylor Pomerantz. She has tried to eat there two or three times, but encountered more than an hour wait each time. “It’s always packed,” she says. “It would be a nice place to take a date. Evanston doesn’t have a lot of hip places, and by the time you’re a senior you’re so sick of all of the same restaurants, so anytime a new place comes up, it’s like ‘Thank you!'”
If the long wait is any indication, the area may not need student business anyway. “Most restaurants don’t open because of students,” says Perman. “Students are a great addition to the market, but not the cause of development.” Apparently, there is a world outside of NU.
