I’ve had literally everything on the menu at Andy’s Frozen Custard, 719 Church St., so I feel pretty well qualified to judge its frozen custard, which is made fresh on the hour. I go there far too often, which isn’t helped by its convenient location just blocks from campus and late hours – until 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11:30 p.m. weekends. Although there are just two custard flavors – vanilla and chocolate – with 30 toppings ranging from fresh fruit to cheesecake or candy bars, there are endless combinations with which to experiment.

For first-timers, I recommend a specialty Concrete to get the full experience. Pumpkin pie Concretes, a whole slice of homemade pumpkin pie mashed up with a few scoops of vanilla custard, will be on the menu until Thanksgiving and they are a must-try. Pumpkin pie alone is sometimes too strongly spiced, too sweet or too dense. Not the case here, where Andy’s takes a la mode to a new level. I’ve never tried baking a pie before, but if I ever do and fail spectacularly, I’ll just mash up the result in ice cream, and I’m sure it’ll be just fine.

Even in the middle of winter, I get a hankering for Andy’s at least once a week. I’ll garner incredulous looks from friends when I ask if anyone wants to go on an Andy’s run with me in the middle of January. Often though, the Stolen Brownie Sundae, a decadently warm and fudgy brownie topped with vanilla custard and roasted pecans, is enough to entice companions.

Some of the more over-the-top treats, such as the James Brownie Funky Jackhammer, might be too much for one person to handle. Not me, but take that with a grain of salt. Even if you’re counting calories, you can make a little allowance for a treat from Andy’s. A small cone is less than 300 calories, or you can opt for a kiddie sundae with a fruit topping. My favorite sundae combination is chocolate frozen custard topped with either raspberries or strawberries.

My current obsession is a Jackhammer I recently invented, based on a peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich. It totally belongs on the permanent menu. Swirl strawberries and pretzels into vanilla custard and fill the center with creamy peanut butter. You get a little tartness, satisfying crunch and smooth, creamy peanut butter in this sweet and salty treat. Try it. You’ll like it, too.