It will take a lot more last-second victories before the the legend of Ryan Field matches that of Mustard’s Last Stand, a tiny hot dog haven that sits slightly southwest of the stadium.
Although it loses out in sheer capacity (Ryan Field seats 47,130; Mustard’s seats 10) the aura of the world-famous hot dog outlet is as much a Saturday morning tradition in Evanston as touchdowns and tailgates are.
Lured by the taste of authentic Vienna polish sausages, classic hamburgers and the quirky Double Dog — two hot dogs stuffed into one bun — Mustard’s Last Stand is the first stop for many beef-starved fans on game day.
“For a lot of people, you go to the game, you go to Mustard’s — it’s part of the itinerary,” said Keith, a 19-year employee.
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Mustard’s opened 32 years ago and has since become an Evanston institution, as much for its food as its unique atmosphere.
A yellow, fully-garnished Chicago-style hot dog dominates the sign atop the entrance of Mustard’s, which is housed in a shack with less square footage than a double-wide trailer.
The small restaurant has even staked out a small claim in pop culture. It is the subject of a Trivial Pursuit question in the Genus 4 edition. (“What’s the specialty in an Evanston, Ill., eatery called Mustard’s Last Stand?”)
As you enter, the hot dog assembly line is located on the left and a counter with 10 stools lines the right. When Mustard’s is full, there’s barely enough room for people place orders.
Sports paraphernalia, mostly Northwestern-related, dominates the walls — everything from Sports Illustrated covers to photographs to old lacrosse sticks. There’s also a signed portrait of actor Martin Downey.
People know they’ve found something special when they discover Mustard’s, and many keep coming back, said Keith, who declined to give his last name.
“We get the same people every year,” he said. “This is the first place people come to eat when they get into town.”
Just steps from the football team’s practice fields, Mustard’s has always been a popular pre-practice stop for some NU players.
“It’s great,” said guard Jeff Roehl. “It’s like a little hidden shack, you don’t really see it too often. It’s kind of like a little secret. People don’t really know about it, but when you find out, it’s got some really good food.
“They pride themselves on being close to NU football. It’s nice to go in there and be one of the people who is honored.”
Students, discouraged by expensive stadium hot dogs, also make Mustard’s a Saturday tradition.
“There’s nothing finer than turning to your mates at the end of a victorious football game and knowing that you’re all thinking the same thing: Double Dog with fries,” said Mark Wasiljew, a Weinberg senior.
But even though its location naturally affiliates Mustard’s with NU football, it’s not just fans and athletes who faithfully visit Mustard’s.
The Iowa men’s basketball team, for example, hits Mustard’s before — and after — every game.
“One time the team was playing badly and the coach threatened to take away (the postgame trip to) Mustard’s at halftime,” Keith explained. “They ended up winning.”
Some take their love of Mustard’s to a whole different level.
Last week a couple shared their first meal as a married couple on a picnic table outside of Mustard’s. Other men have proposed there.
“A lot of people met their wives here,” Keith said.
Some Chicago Bears players like to stop in, and Chicago Bulls head coach Tim Floyd is a regular.
“He needed us last year,” Keith explained. “We were like therapy for that guy.”
The image of Keith is synonymous with Mustard’s. For nearly two decades, his large hands have crafted hot dogs for thousands of people — and he takes pride in remembering what his returning customers like to order.
“You might see a woman walking down the street,” he said. “I see a chili dog.”
