By Alex IlyashovPLAY Columnist

A couple weeks ago I dashed to Lisa’s for a hasty late night sushi dinner. Everything edible, meaning spicy or avocado-ed, had vanished, naturally. I opted for the plain tuna roll, which consisted of mauve-hued fish propped up by dry rice and stale seaweed. Enticing…

Thankfully, my stocked fridge came to the rescue. A couple swipes of organic lemon-verbana pesto, a liberal sprinkling of white pear infused vinegar, a powdering of imported asiago and a dousing of tart Kalamata olive juice later, I was back in business. Sure, the hodgepodge of toppings masked every decipherable quality of the sushi itself, but that was kind of the point.

With my penchant for cacophonous flavor combinations, Kaze (2032 W. Roscoe St.) is just my kind of place.

Located on a random residential stretch of Roscoe Village, the tranquil palate of muted beige and white sets a soothingly nondescript ambiance. When it comes to black cod, Kaze eschews the standard Asian marinated-soy-ginger in favor of a thick, mellow chocolate sauce, smoky almonds, vibrant fan of bok choy stalks and a dappling of raspberries.

Even the spicy tuna rolls come spiffed up with rich slices of tempura-battered sweet potato, crunchy and petite masago (fish eggs), and an electric yellow garnish that could be either bell pepper or marinated mango. The slippery sesame and eel oil soy sauce arrives in a hollowed-out cucumber and adds even more depth. A most luxuriantly buttery slice of raw salmon is doubly intensified by a puddle of potent, woodsy mushroom shards and oil.

Clearly, this is sushi for the hungry.

Kaze’s “seasonal stylings” menu is a compelling but pricey fleet of the chef’s latest concoctions, including a lobster soymilk soup and a decadent assortment of nigiri.

Who can think about dessert after such savory feats? Well, let me put it this way: the sushi seems paltry compared to chef’s exquisite and creative confections. There’s a dense, sublime black sesame flan, disarmingly powerful green tea mousse, frothy, souffl